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Peak Climbing Rules

Under the power conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association have formulated following rules to be taken in consideration for climbing peaks of Nepal that are listed in Appendix 1.

Definition:-
The applicable definitions for these rules will be same as those of Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

Permission:-
It is mandatory to receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for any expedition team or individual desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix ‘1’. Application to mountaineer the peak must be made in the form as mentioned in Appendix ‘2’. Climbers get only one month climbing period. Climbing period however can be extended for another period of two weeks. Climbing period starts from the base camp after you start climbing the peak. The trek to and from the base camp of the peak don’t fall under the climbing period granted by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). It is possible to apply for climbing permits anytime by concerned mountaineering team. Climbing permits will granted on first come first service basis. Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has full authority to grant permission to another climbing group for summiting the same peak during same period. NMA will recommend to Immigration Office to obtain trekking permits of the area for team members.

Payment of Fee:-
The climbing fee structure of NMA 18 trekking peaks listed in Appendix ‘1’ are as listed below:

S.N. Name of the Peaks Elevation (M) Himalayan Range Location (Zone) Caravan Route
1. ShiguChuli (fluted peak) 6,501m Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pkr-Ghorepani-Taadapaani
2. Mera Peak 6,654m KhumbuHimal Sagarmatha Ktm-Jiri-Shivalaya-Junbasi-Nunthala-Kharikhola-Poyanbung-Chadrabu-Kothe-Khar
3. KusumKangru 6,367m KhumbuHimal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-B.C.
4. Kwandge 6,011m Khumbu Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.
5. Chulu West 6,419m Manang Gandaki Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani
6. Imja-tse (Island Peak) 6,160m KhumbuHimal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namch-Tyangboche-Dingboche-Chhukang-B.C.
7. Pharchamo 6,187m RolwalingHimal Janakpur Ktm-Dolkha-Siguti-Jagat-Simigaon-Chagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.
8. Lobuche 6,119m KhumbuHimal Range Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-RermoPokhari-Gokyo-Dzongala-B>C>
9. Ramdung 5,925m RolwalingHimal Janakpur Ktm-Dolakha-Siguti-Gongerdoranangbu-Beding-Na-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban-Tashi Lapcha-B.C.
10. Pisang 6,091m Manang Gandaki Ktm-Beshisahar-Bahundanda-Chamja-Bagarchhap-Chamme-Pisang-B.C.
11. TharpuChuli (Tent Peak) 5,663m Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Lukla-Namvhe-Dol-Mechermo-Gokyo-Dughala-B.C.
14. Pokhalde 5,806m KhumbuHimal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokyo-Na-ThagnaCholapass-B.C.
15. Mardi Himal 5,896m LangtangHimal Bagmati Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangja-Dhiprang-Kharka-Marid B.C.
16. Paldor 5,896m LangtangHimal Bagmati Ktm-Dhading-AnkhuKhola-Rigaon-Jaralang-Sertung-Krarka-Somdang
17. Hiuchuli 6,441m Annapurna Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Chomrong-Bamboo-B.C.
18. Chulu East 6,584m Damodar Gandaki Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-B.C.

Payment of Fee:-
The climbing fee structure of NMA peaks are as follows:-
Climbers will be charged 25% of total amount of initial fee for each extra week. Mountaineer must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum of number of members in a group should not be more than 12.

Refund:-
NMA Refund Law advocates that in case of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reason, fees already paid are not refundable.
Every expedition team granted for climbing peaks by NMA must be accompanied by Sirdar/Guide, who must be legally registered with NMA. 

Duties and responsibilities of the Sirdar/Guide:-

  • Supporting the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control the porters, local purchase etc. and to solve the problem that may arise tactically.
  • Reporting to NMA in case the climbing party spends more than permitted time in the mountain
  • Ensuring the climbers follow terms of their permit
  • Ensuring climbers follow the route specified by NMA
  • Ensuring proper disposal of waste materials
  • Reporting NMA in case any infringement of the climbing rules
  • Reporting the serious incident to the nearest police station

Employment Condition of Sirder/Guide

  • Minimum daily amount must be paid as per the rules of Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aivation
  • Guides must be provided with good food and tent accommodation during the climbing trip
  • Insurance must be made for all the employees giving above the base camp and the insurance amount must value R.S. 2, 00,000.00.
  • Climbing gears and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

Nomination of Representative
Every party granted for climbing permits will nominate their representative in Kathmandu that acts as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative might be a person or any NMA registered organization. The selected representatives helps making all necessary arrangements in case of accidents or unforeseen circumstances.

Report Submission
After the completion of the climb and on arrival to Kathmandu, the party will submit the report to NMA as prescribed in Appendix ‘4’.

Cancellation of Permit by NMA
NMA have full authority to cancel or with draw the climbing permits issued before with showing any particular reason.

Non-Compliance of Regulation
In case, any climbing party acts in violating the climbing permits rules or make any acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior in contrary to law and culture of the people, NMA have right to correspond to the Government of Nepal to take necessary steps in accordance to the article 37 of Mountaineering Regulation 1979.

Environmental Protection
Base camps and other trail areas must be left clean at the completion of the expedition. NMA suggests that no foreign materials and climbing gears like- fix rope, pistons etc. shall be left on the mountain. All the wastage must be burnt or disposed properly.

Revision of Regulations:-
Any article of this regulation may be amended or revised by the NMA anytime with the permission of Nepal Government.

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