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Tilicho Peak Expedition

Tilicho Peak Expedition Overview

Tilicho Peak expedition is one of the popular but challenging peaks among seven thousanders in Annapurna region. Tilicho Peak climbing offers unique climbing experience and exhibits exhilarating views of Annapurna range, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau and deepest valley of Kali Gandaki.

 It is located to the north of Annapurna at the end of Grand Barrier, about 11 km long massif extending from Annapurna I in northwest direction. Tilicho Peak was first discovered by Maurice Herzog in 1950 during his reconnaissance of Mount Annapurna. Later, Emanuel Schmutz climbed Tilicho Peak for the first time in 1979 via Northwest route which reaches the shores of Lake Tilicho. This is the most elegant and accessible climbing route to Tilicho with Base Camp (4800m) placed at the Northwest end of the lake.

Though Tilicho Peak expedition is challenging, it concerns on straightforward climb. The climb from Base Camp to Camp I (5,795m), on a shelf below the Northwest shoulder is straightforward. The climbing route crosses 1.5km long and big snow field and includes challenging ascend though 50 degree mixed rock and ice for 690m to reach Camp I.  The view of Tilicho Lake from Camp I is awe-inspiring. We halt at Camp I for acclimatization.

Camp II (6200m) lies on the shoulder and can be reached climbing via 55 degree snowfield of 700m length. Fixed roped will be set up of to ease up at complicated angle but thanks to the width of the shoulder that prevents from the objective risk. If the weather permits, we will attempt the summit the next day. If not, we trace back to Base Camp for recovery and try for another summit push.

Though Tilicho Peak climbing route continues on the wider shoulder, the major challenge is to cover the 700m long snow-field with less stops to reduce the risk of avalanches. After completion of the expedition, you can opt the shortest route via Mesokanto Pass to Jomsom (1 day trek) or follow the Annapurna circuit trail via Thorong La Pass (5416m) to Jomsom that takes around 3 days.

We supply full board package for Tilicho Peak climbing expedition including all the permits and necessary logistics from the first day of your arrival to the departure from Kathmandu. Our service includes proper climbing maps and route, hygienic food prepared by expert cook, experienced and multilingual local Sherpas and guides, proper logistics, well-furnished accommodation and recreational tour to Kathmandu and other cities. 

 

Itinerary

Day01: Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu and transfer to hotel by our airport representatives. Tilicho Peak climbing briefing with official arrangements. Overnight at hotel

Day02: Sightseeing of Kathmandu valley with own activities and shopping and preparation for Tilicho Peak expedition. Overnight at hotel.

Day03: Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (760m/5 hours) and trek to Khundi (790m/3 hours). Camp overnight

Day04: Trek from Khundi to Bahundanda (1310m/4 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day05: Trek from Bahundanda to Taal (1700m/6 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day06: Trek from Taal to Bagarchhap (3160m/6 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day07: Trek from Bagarchhap to Chame (2670m/5 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day08: Trek from Chame to Pisang (3300m/6 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day09: Trek from Pisang to Manang 93540m/5 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day10: Rest and acclimatization day at Manang

Day11: Trek from Manang to Khangsar (3700m/7 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day12: Trek from Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp (4400m/7-8 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day13-23: Tilicho Peak (7,134m) – climbing period

Day24: Cleaning of Base Camp and trek back to Khangsar (3700m/6 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day25: Trek from Khangdar to Thorong Phedi (4450m/7 hours). Overnight at tented camp.

Day26: Trek from Thorong Phedi to Mukhinath (3800m/8 hours) via Thorong La Pass (5416m)

Day27:  Trek from Muktinath to Jomsom (2710m/4 hours)

Day28: Flight: Jomsom – Pokhara (25 minutes) – Kathmandu (20 minutes). Overnight at hotel.

Day29:  Enjoy free day at Kathmandu and attend farewell dinner at typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show. Overnight at hotel.

Day30: Transfer to airport for final departure.

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