Pumori Expedition

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Pumori Expedition
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Facts About Pumori Expedition

Grade

Challenging

Max Size

1-15

Altitude

7161 m

Transportation

Privet Jeep/ Plane

Accomodation

Lodge

Major Activity

Trekking & Expedition

Himalayan Sights

Everest range

Starts/Ends

Kathamandu - Kathmandu

Duration:

34 Days

Trip Overview

Major Highlights of Pumori Expedition

  •  Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal and provides stunning views of some of the world’s highest mountains, including Mt. Everest.
  •  The route to the summit of Pumori is relatively straightforward, making it a great option for climbers who are looking for a challenging but not overly technical climb.
  • Pumori is situated in the Khumbu region of Nepal, which is home to some of the world’s most iconic mountains, including Mt. Everest and Lhotse.
  • The trek to Pumori base camp takes you through some stunning scenery, including forests, alpine meadows, and glaciers.
  • The views from the summit of Pumori are simply incredible, with 360-degree panoramas of some of the world’s highest mountains.
  •  Pumori is an ideal peak for those who want to combine trekking and climbing in Nepal’s stunning Khumbu region.
  •  There are two main routes to the summit of Pumori, the standard route and the French Ridge route.
  • The French Ridge route is considered to be the more challenging of the two, with some sections of exposed climbing.

Pumori, at 7,161 metres (23,494 ft) is the 21st highest mountain in the world and seventh-highest in Nepal. It lies in the Nepalese Himalayas 20 km (12 mi) west of Mount Everest. Pumori was first climbed by Leslie Wilcox and Geoff Harrow with Sherpa sirdars Ang Dorje and Da Tenzing on May 16, 1953.

Pumori is one of Nepal's more popular trekking peaks. Situated on the main route to Everest, it provides fine views of that mountain as well as of the other giants in the area, Lhotse, Nuptse and Changtse. 

Despite its moderate altitude, Pumori is a challenging climb. A number of routes have been tried, but all are long and relatively difficult.

The easiest and most popular route is the South West Ridge. It was first climbed by the 1953 British expedition, and has since become the standard route.

 It involves a moderate amount of rock-climbing, up to British Grade III. The South West Ridge can be climbed without the need for supplementary oxygen.

Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.

There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions. 

It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.

The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.

Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.

Pumori Expedition Route

Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.

There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions. 

It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.

The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.

Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.

Best Season for Pumori Expedition

Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. It lies in the Everest region and offers stunning views of some of the world's highest mountains, including Mount Everest. 

The best time to attempt a Pumori expedition is during the spring season, when the weather is generally stable and there is less likelihood of snowfall or avalanches. This is also the busiest time of year on the mountain, so you may need to book your expedition well in advance. 

If you're looking for a quieter experience, autumn can be a good time to trek, although the weather is more unpredictable. Winter expeditions are possible but very challenging, and only recommended for experienced climbers.

Pumori Expedition Food

Food on the expedition will be a mixture of Western and Nepali dishes, designed to provide the necessary calories and nutrients for climbing at high altitude. 

Breakfast will typically be porridge, eggs or pancakes, while lunch and dinner will usually consist of rice, pasta, vegetables and meat. Snacks such as chocolate, biscuits and nuts will also be available to help keep energy levels up.

Accommodations during Pumori Expedition    

Pumori Expedition offers various types of accommodation to its climbers according to their budget and preferences. The most popular option is the tea-house trekking, where you will stay in local teahouses along the way. 

This is a great option for those who want to have a more authentic experience and interact with the locals. There are also some higher-end options available, such as lodges and camping. Whichever option you choose, you will be sure to have a comfortable and memorable experience.

Pumori Expedition Tips

Climbing Pumori is a challenging undertaking, both physically and mentally. It is therefore important to be as prepared as possible before attempting the climb. Here are a few tips to help you on your way:

Undertake some mountaineering training before the expedition, to help you acclimatise to the demands of high-altitude climbing.

Get into good physical shape before the expedition. This will make the climb much easier and help you to enjoy it more.

Be prepared for bad weather. It is a good idea to bring some extra food and clothing, just in case you get stuck in camp for a day or two.

Don’t attempt to summit Pumori if you are not feeling well. High altitude can make even minor illnesses much worse, so it is important to listen to your body and descend if necessary.

Remember that you are climbing in one of the most remote and beautiful places on earth. Take some time to enjoy the scenery and the experience, even if you don’t reach the summit.

Pumori Expedition Permits and Documents

You will need the following documents to be granted a permit to climb Pumori: 

1. A completed application form 

2. A copy of your passport 

3. Two recent passport photographs 

4. A letter from your doctor confirming that you are physically fit to undertake the expedition 

5. A climbing resume detailing your previous experience 

6. A deposit of $500 USD

Once your application has been reviewed and approved, you will be issued with a permit which must be carried with you at all times during the expedition. Please note that permits are non-transferable and are only valid for the dates specified. Permits may be extended but this must be done prior to the expiration date and is subject to availability. 

Pumori Expedition Guide

Climbing Pumori is a serious undertaking, and it is therefore important to choose a reputable and experienced expedition company to organise your trip. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a guide:

• Make sure the company is registered with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

• Check that the guides are experienced in climbing in the Himalaya.

• Find out what kind of support the company will provide during the expedition.

• Ask about their safety procedures, in case of an emergency.

• Get some recommendations from other climbers who have used the company before.

Equipments on Pumori Expedition

Pumori expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are: 

1. Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces. 

2. Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall. 

3. Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Pumori requires special ropes that are strong and durable. 

4. Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope. 

5. Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness. 

6. Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice. 

7. Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow. 

8. Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes. 

9. Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm. 

10. First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition. 

11. Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition. 

12. Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm. 

13. Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds. 

14. Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb. 

15. Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency. 

16. Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone. 

17. Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition. 

Final Thoughts

Climbing Pumori is an amazing experience, and one that you will never forget. The scenery is truly breathtaking, and the feeling of achievement when you reach the summit is second to none. 

However, it is important to remember that Pumori is a serious mountain, and it should not be taken lightly. Be sure to prepare properly and choose a reputable guide, and you will be sure to have an unforgettable adventure.

Pumori Expedition Itinerary

Expand/Collapse All
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel, overnight at hotel.
Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel, overnight at hotel.

Day 2 : Stay in Kathmandu for the official procedure, overnight at hotel.
Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Stay in Kathmandu for the official procedure, overnight at hotel.

Day 3 : Fly to Lukla and start trek to Phakding, overnight at guesthouse.
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Loadge
Elevation
2610

Fly to Lukla and start trek to Phakding, overnight at guesthouse.

Day 4 : Trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight at guesthouse.
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight at guesthouse.

Day 5 : Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, overnight at guesthouse.
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, overnight at guesthouse.

Day 6 : Trek from Namche Bazaar to Dole (4,200m/13,780ft): 5-6 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4200

Trek from Namche Bazaar to Dole (4,200m/13,780ft): 5-6 hours

 

Day 7 : Trek from Dole to Machhermo (4,470m/14,663ft): 4-5 hours
Food
breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4470

Trek from Dole to Machhermo (4,470m/14,663ft): 4-5 hours

Day 8 : Trek from Machhermo to Gokyo (4,790m/15,715ft): 3-4 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4790

Trek from Machhermo to Gokyo (4,790m/15,715ft): 3-4 hours

Day 9 : Acclimatisation day in Gokyo
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4790

Acclimatisation day in Gokyo

Day 10 : Trek from Gokyo to Marlung (5,210m/17,090ft): 4-5 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5210

Trek from Gokyo to Marlung (5,210m/17,090ft): 4-5 hours

Day 11 : Trek from Marlung to Lungden (5,380m/17,665ft): 4-5 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Tent
Elevation
5380

Trek from Marlung to Lungden (5,380m/17,665ft): 4-5 hours

Day 12 : Trek from Lungden to Pumori Base Camp (5,600m/18,370ft): 5-6 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5600

Trek from Lungden to Pumori Base Camp (5,600m/18,370ft): 5-6 hours

Day 13 -30 : Climbing period on Pumori (7,161m/23,494ft)
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
7161

Climbing period on Pumori (7,161m/23,494ft)

Day 31 : Trek from Pumori Base Camp to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 5-6 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4730

Trek from Pumori Base Camp to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 5-6 hours

Day 32 : Trek from Chhukung to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 7-8 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Trek from Chhukung to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 7-8 hours

Day 33 : Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m/9,383ft): 6-7 hours
Food
Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2860

Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m/9,383ft): 6-7 hours

Day 34 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 35 : After Breakfast free time and we drop you in airport for final departure 3hrs before your flight time

After Breakfast free time and we drop you in airport for final departure 3hrs before your flight time 

Cost Includes

  • Airport transfers (domestic and international both)
  • Press conference arrangement
  • 5 nights hotel accommodation at Hotel Yak and Yeti or similar with breakfast
  • Climbing Permit fee for Mt. Pumori and Sagarmatha National Park entry fee
  • Food & Fuel during the trek and expedition period
  • North Face or similar quality high altitude tent for higher camps
  • Single tent for each member, staffs, climbing Sherpa at the base camp
  • 4/4 bottles of oxygen per member and guide with mask and regulator
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters/Yaks to and from base camp
  • One high altitude Sherpa for one climber (1:1) who assist you whilst on climbing and summit attempt as well as carries food and gears to high camps
  • Government liaison officer, his insurance, daily allowance, equipment allowance and flight fares
  • Flight fare for member and staff (Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu)
  • Insurance, equipment allowance, wages and daily allowance for expedition staffs
  • All camping equipment: sleeping tents, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table & chairs and other necessary kitchen utensils whilst on trekking and expedition
  • Group climbing equipment such as necessary fixed rope, ice screws, ice bars etc.
  • First Aid kit bag, trekking map & duffel bag
  • Solar panel at the base camp
  • Restop toilet bag
  • Satellite phone (Pay Call)
  • Walkie Talkie for each staff and member
  • Mountain cans cleaning at high camps
  • Cargo transportation to supply the food and gears to Luklar and back
  • All ground transportation
  • Necessary documentation and governmental official paper work
  • All applicable taxes as per the government rules and regulations

Cost Excludes

  • Personal climbing gears
  • Extra hotels in Kathmandu (after 5 nights)
  • Personal climbing insurance which covers travel, medical, accident, evacuation etc.
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
  • Applicable permit fees and custom charges for using communication equipment, commercial filming, satellite phone, radio etc.
  • Carrying bonus + Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone, e-mail, etc.
  • Bar and beverage bills
  • Custom clearances in Kathmandu International airport
  • Gratitude (tip) for the staff etc.

Altitude Graph

Fequenty Asked Questions (FAQs)

How difficult is Pumori Expedition?

Pumori Expedition is not a difficult expedition. However, it does require some technical mountaineering skills. The most difficult part of the expedition is the summit push, which involves climbing steep snow and ice slopes. 

Conditions can be challenging, and climbers need to be well-prepared before attempting the summit. Although Pumori Expedition is not a difficult expedition, it is still a serious undertaking that should not be taken lightly.

 

Where is Mount Pumori located?

Mount Pumori is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and Tibet.

How high is Mount Pumori?

Mount Pumori is 7,161 meters (23,494 feet) tall.

What is the best time of year to climb Mount Pumori?

The best time to climb Mount Pumori is during the spring (April-May) and fall (October-November) climbing seasons.

How difficult is the climb up Mount Pumori?

Climbing Mount Pumori is considered a technical climb and is rated as a difficulty level of 5.9 on the Yosemite Decimal System. It requires technical climbing skills and experience with ice, rock, and glacier travel.

What kind of gear is required for a Mount Pumori expedition?

A Mount Pumori expedition requires specialized climbing gear including ropes, ice axes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, and protective clothing. High altitude mountaineering gear such as oxygen tanks and masks may also be necessary.

Do I need a permit to climb Mount Pumori?

Yes, a climbing permit is required to climb Mount Pumori. Permits are issued by the Nepalese government through the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.

Do I need a guide to climb Mount Pumori?

It is highly recommended to have a guide with you when climbing Mount Pumori. A guide can provide valuable experience, knowledge, and support during the climb, as well as ensure your safety.

How long does it take to climb Mount Pumori?

The length of a Mount Pumori expedition varies depending on factors such as the route taken, weather conditions, and the climber's experience. A typical expedition may take around 5 weeks.

Is it safe to climb Mount Pumori?

Mountaineering is an inherently dangerous activity and climbing Mount Pumori involves risks such as altitude sickness, falls, and avalanches. However, with proper preparation, equipment, and experienced guides, it is possible to minimize these risks and have a safe climb.

Additional Information

Pumori Expedition Route

Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.

There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions. 

It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.

The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.

Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.

Best Season for Pumori Expedition 

Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. It lies in the Everest region and offers stunning views of some of the world's highest mountains, including Mount Everest. 

The best time to attempt a Pumori expedition is during the spring season, when the weather is generally stable and there is less likelihood of snowfall or avalanches. This is also the busiest time of year on the mountain, so you may need to book your expedition well in advance. 

If you're looking for a quieter experience, autumn can be a good time to trek, although the weather is more unpredictable. Winter expeditions are possible but very challenging, and only recommended for experienced climbers.

Trip Info

Pumori Expedition Food

Food on the expedition will be a mixture of Western and Nepali dishes, designed to provide the necessary calories and nutrients for climbing at high altitude. 

Breakfast will typically be porridge, eggs or pancakes, while lunch and dinner will usually consist of rice, pasta, vegetables and meat. Snacks such as chocolate, biscuits and nuts will also be available to help keep energy levels up.

Accommodations during Pumori Expedition    

Pumori Expedition offers various types of accommodation to its climbers according to their budget and preferences. The most popular option is the tea-house trekking, where you will stay in local teahouses along the way. 

This is a great option for those who want to have a more authentic experience and interact with the locals. There are also some higher-end options available, such as lodges and camping. Whichever option you choose, you will be sure to have a comfortable and memorable experience.

Pumori Expedition Tips

Climbing Pumori is a challenging undertaking, both physically and mentally. It is therefore important to be as prepared as possible before attempting the climb. Here are a few tips to help you on your way:

• Undertake some mountaineering training before the expedition, to help you acclimatise to the demands of high-altitude climbing.

• Get into good physical shape before the expedition. This will make the climb much easier and help you to enjoy it more.

• Be prepared for bad weather. It is a good idea to bring some extra food and clothing, just in case you get stuck in camp for a day or two.

• Don’t attempt to summit Pumori if you are not feeling well. High altitude can make even minor illnesses much worse, so it is important to listen to your body and descend if necessary.

• Remember that you are climbing in one of the most remote and beautiful places on earth. Take some time to enjoy the scenery and the experience, even if you don’t reach the summit.

Pumori Expedition Permits and Documents

You will need the following documents to be granted a permit to climb Pumori: 

1. A completed application form 

2. A copy of your passport 

3. Two recent passport photographs 

4. A letter from your doctor confirming that you are physically fit to undertake the expedition 

5. A climbing resume detailing your previous experience 

6. A deposit of $500 USD

Once your application has been reviewed and approved, you will be issued with a permit which must be carried with you at all times during the expedition. Please note that permits are non-transferable and are only valid for the dates specified. Permits may be extended but this must be done prior to the expiration date and is subject to availability. 

Pumori Expedition Guide

Climbing Pumori is a serious undertaking, and it is therefore important to choose a reputable and experienced expedition company to organise your trip. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a guide:

• Make sure the company is registered with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

• Check that the guides are experienced in climbing in the Himalaya.

• Find out what kind of support the company will provide during the expedition.

• Ask about their safety procedures, in case of an emergency.

• Get some recommendations from other climbers who have used the company before.

Equipments on Pumori Expedition

Pumori expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are: 

1. Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces. 

2. Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall. 

3. Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Pumori requires special ropes that are strong and durable. 

4. Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope. 

5. Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness. 

6. Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice. 

7. Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow. 

8. Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes. 

9. Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm. 

10. First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition. 

11. Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition. 

12. Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm. 

13. Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds. 

14. Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb. 

15. Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency. 

16. Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone. 

17. Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition. 

Final Thoughts

Climbing Pumori is an amazing experience, and one that you will never forget. The scenery is truly breathtaking, and the feeling of achievement when you reach the summit is second to none. 

However, it is important to remember that Pumori is a serious mountain, and it should not be taken lightly. Be sure to prepare properly and choose a reputable guide, and you will be sure to have an unforgettable adventure.

Trip Reviews (1)

Pamela

8th Jun, 2022

Everything was well managed, the climbing guide was experienced and professional. We had a successful climbing


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