Pumori, at 7,161 metres (23,494 ft) is the 21st highest mountain in the world and seventh-highest in Nepal. It lies in the Nepalese Himalayas 20 km (12 mi) west of Mount Everest. Pumori was first climbed by Leslie Wilcox and Geoff Harrow with Sherpa sirdars Ang Dorje and Da Tenzing on May 16, 1953.
Pumori is one of Nepal's more popular trekking peaks. Situated on the main route to Everest, it provides fine views of that mountain as well as of the other giants in the area, Lhotse, Nuptse and Changtse.
Despite its moderate altitude, Pumori is a challenging climb. A number of routes have been tried, but all are long and relatively difficult.
The easiest and most popular route is the South West Ridge. It was first climbed by the 1953 British expedition, and has since become the standard route.
It involves a moderate amount of rock-climbing, up to British Grade III. The South West Ridge can be climbed without the need for supplementary oxygen.
Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.
There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions.
It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.
The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.
Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.
Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.
There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions.
It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.
The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.
Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.
Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. It lies in the Everest region and offers stunning views of some of the world's highest mountains, including Mount Everest.
The best time to attempt a Pumori expedition is during the spring season, when the weather is generally stable and there is less likelihood of snowfall or avalanches. This is also the busiest time of year on the mountain, so you may need to book your expedition well in advance.
If you're looking for a quieter experience, autumn can be a good time to trek, although the weather is more unpredictable. Winter expeditions are possible but very challenging, and only recommended for experienced climbers.
Food on the expedition will be a mixture of Western and Nepali dishes, designed to provide the necessary calories and nutrients for climbing at high altitude.
Breakfast will typically be porridge, eggs or pancakes, while lunch and dinner will usually consist of rice, pasta, vegetables and meat. Snacks such as chocolate, biscuits and nuts will also be available to help keep energy levels up.
Pumori Expedition offers various types of accommodation to its climbers according to their budget and preferences. The most popular option is the tea-house trekking, where you will stay in local teahouses along the way.
This is a great option for those who want to have a more authentic experience and interact with the locals. There are also some higher-end options available, such as lodges and camping. Whichever option you choose, you will be sure to have a comfortable and memorable experience.
Climbing Pumori is a challenging undertaking, both physically and mentally. It is therefore important to be as prepared as possible before attempting the climb. Here are a few tips to help you on your way:
• Undertake some mountaineering training before the expedition, to help you acclimatise to the demands of high-altitude climbing.
• Get into good physical shape before the expedition. This will make the climb much easier and help you to enjoy it more.
• Be prepared for bad weather. It is a good idea to bring some extra food and clothing, just in case you get stuck in camp for a day or two.
• Don’t attempt to summit Pumori if you are not feeling well. High altitude can make even minor illnesses much worse, so it is important to listen to your body and descend if necessary.
• Remember that you are climbing in one of the most remote and beautiful places on earth. Take some time to enjoy the scenery and the experience, even if you don’t reach the summit.
You will need the following documents to be granted a permit to climb Pumori:
1. A completed application form
2. A copy of your passport
3. Two recent passport photographs
4. A letter from your doctor confirming that you are physically fit to undertake the expedition
5. A climbing resume detailing your previous experience
6. A deposit of $500 USD
Once your application has been reviewed and approved, you will be issued with a permit which must be carried with you at all times during the expedition. Please note that permits are non-transferable and are only valid for the dates specified. Permits may be extended but this must be done prior to the expiration date and is subject to availability.
Climbing Pumori is a serious undertaking, and it is therefore important to choose a reputable and experienced expedition company to organise your trip. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a guide:
• Make sure the company is registered with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).
• Check that the guides are experienced in climbing in the Himalaya.
• Find out what kind of support the company will provide during the expedition.
• Ask about their safety procedures, in case of an emergency.
• Get some recommendations from other climbers who have used the company before.
Pumori expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are:
1. Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces.
2. Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall.
3. Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Pumori requires special ropes that are strong and durable.
4. Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope.
5. Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness.
6. Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice.
7. Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow.
8. Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes.
9. Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm.
10. First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition.
11. Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition.
12. Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm.
13. Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds.
14. Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb.
15. Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency.
16. Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone.
17. Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition.
Climbing Pumori is an amazing experience, and one that you will never forget. The scenery is truly breathtaking, and the feeling of achievement when you reach the summit is second to none.
However, it is important to remember that Pumori is a serious mountain, and it should not be taken lightly. Be sure to prepare properly and choose a reputable guide, and you will be sure to have an unforgettable adventure.
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel, overnight at hotel.
Stay in Kathmandu for the official procedure, overnight at hotel.
Fly to Lukla and start trek to Phakding, overnight at guesthouse.
Trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight at guesthouse.
Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, overnight at guesthouse.
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Dole (4,200m/13,780ft): 5-6 hours
Trek from Dole to Machhermo (4,470m/14,663ft): 4-5 hours
Trek from Machhermo to Gokyo (4,790m/15,715ft): 3-4 hours
Acclimatisation day in Gokyo
Trek from Gokyo to Marlung (5,210m/17,090ft): 4-5 hours
Trek from Marlung to Lungden (5,380m/17,665ft): 4-5 hours
Trek from Lungden to Pumori Base Camp (5,600m/18,370ft): 5-6 hours
Climbing period on Pumori (7,161m/23,494ft)
Trek from Pumori Base Camp to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 5-6 hours
Trek from Chhukung to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 7-8 hours
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m/9,383ft): 6-7 hours
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
After Breakfast free time and we drop you in airport for final departure 3hrs before your flight time
Pumori Expedition is not a difficult expedition. However, it does require some technical mountaineering skills. The most difficult part of the expedition is the summit push, which involves climbing steep snow and ice slopes.
Conditions can be challenging, and climbers need to be well-prepared before attempting the summit. Although Pumori Expedition is not a difficult expedition, it is still a serious undertaking that should not be taken lightly.
Mount Pumori is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Mount Pumori is 7,161 meters (23,494 feet) tall.
The best time to climb Mount Pumori is during the spring (April-May) and fall (October-November) climbing seasons.
Climbing Mount Pumori is considered a technical climb and is rated as a difficulty level of 5.9 on the Yosemite Decimal System. It requires technical climbing skills and experience with ice, rock, and glacier travel.
A Mount Pumori expedition requires specialized climbing gear including ropes, ice axes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, and protective clothing. High altitude mountaineering gear such as oxygen tanks and masks may also be necessary.
Yes, a climbing permit is required to climb Mount Pumori. Permits are issued by the Nepalese government through the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
It is highly recommended to have a guide with you when climbing Mount Pumori. A guide can provide valuable experience, knowledge, and support during the climb, as well as ensure your safety.
The length of a Mount Pumori expedition varies depending on factors such as the route taken, weather conditions, and the climber's experience. A typical expedition may take around 5 weeks.
Mountaineering is an inherently dangerous activity and climbing Mount Pumori involves risks such as altitude sickness, falls, and avalanches. However, with proper preparation, equipment, and experienced guides, it is possible to minimize these risks and have a safe climb.
Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and as such, there are many different routes that can be taken to reach the summit. The most common route starts from the village of Lukla, which can be reached by flying in from Kathmandu. From Lukla, it is a six to seven day trek to Base Camp, depending on the pace at which you travel.
There are two main routes from Base Camp to the summit of Pumori. The first, and most popular, route follows the South Ridge. This route is considered to be the easier of the two, and as such, it is the one that is most often used by commercial expeditions.
It should be noted, however, that this route is still considered to be a challenging climb, and it should not be attempted without proper preparation.
The second route to the summit of Pumori is via the North Ridge. This route is considerably more difficult than the South Ridge, and as such, it is seldom used by commercial expeditions. It is, however, a popular choice for experienced climbers looking for a more challenging ascent.
Whichever route you choose to take, the ascent of Pumori is a demanding climb that should not be undertaken lightly. However, the rewards of reaching the summit are more than worth the effort, and those who are successful will be able to enjoy some of the most stunning views in all of Nepal.
Pumori is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. It lies in the Everest region and offers stunning views of some of the world's highest mountains, including Mount Everest.
The best time to attempt a Pumori expedition is during the spring season, when the weather is generally stable and there is less likelihood of snowfall or avalanches. This is also the busiest time of year on the mountain, so you may need to book your expedition well in advance.
If you're looking for a quieter experience, autumn can be a good time to trek, although the weather is more unpredictable. Winter expeditions are possible but very challenging, and only recommended for experienced climbers.
Food on the expedition will be a mixture of Western and Nepali dishes, designed to provide the necessary calories and nutrients for climbing at high altitude.
Breakfast will typically be porridge, eggs or pancakes, while lunch and dinner will usually consist of rice, pasta, vegetables and meat. Snacks such as chocolate, biscuits and nuts will also be available to help keep energy levels up.
Pumori Expedition offers various types of accommodation to its climbers according to their budget and preferences. The most popular option is the tea-house trekking, where you will stay in local teahouses along the way.
This is a great option for those who want to have a more authentic experience and interact with the locals. There are also some higher-end options available, such as lodges and camping. Whichever option you choose, you will be sure to have a comfortable and memorable experience.
Climbing Pumori is a challenging undertaking, both physically and mentally. It is therefore important to be as prepared as possible before attempting the climb. Here are a few tips to help you on your way:
• Undertake some mountaineering training before the expedition, to help you acclimatise to the demands of high-altitude climbing.
• Get into good physical shape before the expedition. This will make the climb much easier and help you to enjoy it more.
• Be prepared for bad weather. It is a good idea to bring some extra food and clothing, just in case you get stuck in camp for a day or two.
• Don’t attempt to summit Pumori if you are not feeling well. High altitude can make even minor illnesses much worse, so it is important to listen to your body and descend if necessary.
• Remember that you are climbing in one of the most remote and beautiful places on earth. Take some time to enjoy the scenery and the experience, even if you don’t reach the summit.
You will need the following documents to be granted a permit to climb Pumori:
1. A completed application form
2. A copy of your passport
3. Two recent passport photographs
4. A letter from your doctor confirming that you are physically fit to undertake the expedition
5. A climbing resume detailing your previous experience
6. A deposit of $500 USD
Once your application has been reviewed and approved, you will be issued with a permit which must be carried with you at all times during the expedition. Please note that permits are non-transferable and are only valid for the dates specified. Permits may be extended but this must be done prior to the expiration date and is subject to availability.
Climbing Pumori is a serious undertaking, and it is therefore important to choose a reputable and experienced expedition company to organise your trip. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a guide:
• Make sure the company is registered with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).
• Check that the guides are experienced in climbing in the Himalaya.
• Find out what kind of support the company will provide during the expedition.
• Ask about their safety procedures, in case of an emergency.
• Get some recommendations from other climbers who have used the company before.
Pumori expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are:
1. Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces.
2. Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall.
3. Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Pumori requires special ropes that are strong and durable.
4. Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope.
5. Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness.
6. Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice.
7. Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow.
8. Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes.
9. Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm.
10. First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition.
11. Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition.
12. Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm.
13. Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds.
14. Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb.
15. Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency.
16. Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone.
17. Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition.
Climbing Pumori is an amazing experience, and one that you will never forget. The scenery is truly breathtaking, and the feeling of achievement when you reach the summit is second to none.
However, it is important to remember that Pumori is a serious mountain, and it should not be taken lightly. Be sure to prepare properly and choose a reputable guide, and you will be sure to have an unforgettable adventure.
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Pamela
Brazil
8th June, 2022
Everything was well managed, the climbing guide was experienced and professional. We had a successful climbing