Tukuche Peak Climbing

Tukuche Peak Climbing
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Facts About Tukuche Peak Climbing



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By private Jeep


Hotel / Lodge / Tented Camp

Major Activity

Trekking & Expedition

Himalayan Sights

Annapurna Range


Kathmandu / Pokhara


30 Days

Trip Overview

Tukuche Peak Climbing in Nepal is one of the popular trekking peak expedition. Tukuche Peak (6920m) is located in the Dhaulagiri Himalayan range in Nepal. It is one of the most popular trekking peaks for mountaineers. The peak was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1954. 

The standard route to the summit starts from Tukuche village and follows the Kali Gandaki gorge. It is a challenging climb and requires some mountaineering experience. There are several other routes to the summit, but they are more difficult and require advanced mountaineering skills.

If you are planning to attempt Tukuche Peak, it is important to be well prepared. You should have some previous mountaineering experience and be in good physical condition. 

The climb is challenging and can be dangerous, so it is important to be prepared both mentally and physically. You should also have some basic knowledge of mountaineering skills such as self-arrest, crevasse rescue, and use of ice axe and crampons.

Major Highlights of Tukuche Peak Expedition

  • Tukuche Peak is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal and for good reasons. Situated in the Annapurna region, the peak provides stunning views of some of the world’s highest mountains.
  • The peak is relatively easy to climb, making it a great option for those who are looking to summit their first Nepal peak.
  • The route to the summit takes you through some of Nepal’s most beautiful landscapes, including forests, meadows and rivers.
  • You will also get to experience the culture and hospitality of the local people, who are some of the friendliest in Nepal.
  • The expedition can be customized to suit your individual needs and preferences, making it a great option for those who want a truly personal experience.
  • You will be accompanied by experienced and professional guides throughout the expedition, ensuring your safety and providing you with invaluable insights into the mountains.
  • The entire expedition is very well-organized, making it a hassle-free experience from start to finish.
  • You will have ample time to acclimatize to the altitude before attempting the summit, decreasing the risk of altitude sickness.

Tukuche Peak Expedition Routes

There are a few ways to approach Tukuche Peak, all of which are technically challenging. The most popular route is the South Col Route, which starts from the Nepali side of Everest. This route follows the classic Khumbu Icefall, then ascends Lhotse Face before reaching the South Col. From there, it is a long but relatively straightforward climb to the summit.

Another popular route is the West Ridge Route, which starts from the Tibetan side of Everest. This route is shorter and generally considered to be more difficult than the South Col Route. It involves climbing the tricky North Face of Everest before traversing across the West Ridge to reach the summit.

Finally, there is the Northeast Ridge Route, which starts from the Chinese side of Everest. This route is the longest and most difficult of the three, and involves climbing through the treacherous Great Couloir before reaching the Northeast Ridge. From there, it is a long and difficult climb to the summit.

Which route you choose will depend on your experience, fitness and acclimatisation. All three routes are technically challenging and require a high level of mountaineering skill. If you are unsure which route is right for you, it is best to speak to a qualified mountaineering guide.

Best Season for Tukuche Peak Expedition

Autumn is considered the best season for mountaineering in Nepal as the weather is relatively stable during this time of year. The days are warm and the nights are cool, making it the perfect time to attempt a summit. However, it is important to be aware that snowfall can occur at high altitudes at any time of year, so always be prepared for cold weather conditions. 

Spring is also a good time to climb in Nepal, as the weather is starting to improve after the winter months. However, it is important to be aware that avalanches are more common during this time of year. 

If you are looking for a challenge, then the summer months may be the best time for you to attempt Tukuche peak. Although the weather is more unstable, with potential for thunderstorms and heavy rain, the views from the summit are often clear. 

No matter what time of year you choose to climb, always be prepared for extreme weather conditions and make sure you have the proper equipment. If you are not experienced in mountaineering, it is always best to hire a guide who can help you navigate the routes and provide support.

Foods and Accommodations during Tukuche Peak Expedition

When you're trekking to Tukuche Peak, it's important to have the right food and accommodations to make your journey comfortable. Here are some recommendations for what to eat and where to stay during your expedition:


  • Pack plenty of high-energy snacks like energy bars, nuts, and dried fruit.
  • Bring along some easy-to-prepare meals like instant soups and noodles.
  • Make sure to drink plenty of water, and carry a water filter or purification tablets in case you run out.


  • There are several campsites along the trekking route, so you can choose to either camp or stay in a lodge.
  • If you're camping, make sure to bring a good tent and sleeping bag.
  • If you're staying in a lodge, be aware that many of them have basic facilities only.

With these tips in mind, you'll be sure to have a comfortable and enjoyable expedition to Tukuche Peak!

Tukuche Peak Expedition Permits and Documents

In order to trek to Tukuche peak, you will need the following documents and permits:

  • A passport with at least 6 months validity from the date of your return journey 
  • Nepalese visa 
  • 2 recent passport size photographs 
  • TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management System) 
  • ACAP permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) 
  • Permit to enter the restricted zone (if trekking beyond Thorung La pass) 

You can obtain most of these documents and permits from either a travel agency or the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu. The TIMS card and ACAP permit can also be obtained at the entry point to the Annapurna region, Pokhara.

Costs of Permits and Documents

The costs of the permits and documents required for the Tukuche peak expedition are as follows: 

  • Nepalese visa: 40 USD 
  • TIMS card: 20 USD 
  • ACAP permit: 20 USD 
  • Permit to enter the restricted zone: 50 USD 

Note: That these costs are subject to change. It is always best to check with the relevant authorities for the most up-to-date prices.

Tukuche Peak Expedition Guides and Porters

If you're looking to summit Tukuche Peak, you'll need the help of an experienced guide and porter team. Here's everything you need to know about hiring a guide and porter for your expedition.

When it comes to summiting Tukuche Peak, you'll need the help of an experienced guide and porter team. Here's everything you need to know about hiring a guide and porter for your expedition:


Tukuche Peak is located in the Nepalese Himalayas, and as such, you'll need to hire a local Nepalese guide. A good guide will be intimately familiar with the area and the conditions on the peak, and will be able to provide invaluable advice and support during your expedition. 

Be sure to ask around and get recommendations for reputable guides before making your hiring decision.


Porters are local Nepalese men and women who will carry your gear during the expedition. It's important to choose a reputable porter company that employs experienced porters who are in good physical condition. 

Be sure to ask your potential porter company questions about their safety procedures and policies, as well as what kind of insurance coverage they provide for their employees.

Tukuche Peak Expedition Tips

If you're planning on summiting Tukuche Peak, here are a few tips to help you prepare for the expedition: 

  • First and foremost, make sure you have the proper equipment. This includes items like crampons, an ice axe, and other mountaineering gear. 
  • It's also important to be in good physical shape before attempting the climb. Tukuche Peak is a strenuous hike, and you'll need to be prepared for altitude as well. 
  • Make sure you have a good map of the area, and know the route you'll be taking. It's also a good idea to bring a GPS device, just in case you run into any trouble. 
  • Finally, it's always a good idea to have a support team with you on an expedition like this. Make sure you let someone know your plans, and have a way to communicate with them in case of an emergency.

Equipments on Tukuche Peak Expedition

Tukuche Peak expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are: 

  • Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces. 
  • Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall. 
  • Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Tukuche peak requires special ropes that are strong and durable. 
  • Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope. 
  • Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness. 
  • Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice. 
  • Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow. 
  • Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes. 
  • Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm. 
  • First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition. 
  • Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition. 
  • Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm. 
  • Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds. 
  • Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb. 
  • Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency. 
  • Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone. 
  • Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition. 

Cost Includes

  • All airport pick-up and drop-off service including domestic and international flights
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu for 4 nights on B/B basis
  • One day sightseeing of the Kathmandu city with English speaking tour guide
  • Trekking guides for the trip
  • Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during climbing
  • Necessary porters for trekking/climbing (A porter carries 25-30 Kg)
  • Trekking and camping equipments such as camping tents, mattress, sleeping bags, down jackets.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) and available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during the trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Trekking Permit fee
  • TIMS card fee (Trekkers Information Management System)
  • Peak Climbing permit
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs
  • First Aid medical kit
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at Base Camp and above as required
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu before departure
  • Company service charges
  • Garbage deposit & other Government Taxes

Cost Excludes

  • International Flight Tickets
  • Meal in Kathmandu (Lunch and Dinner, except farewell dinner)
  • Personal nature expenses such as energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates etc.
  • Services such as Laundry expenses, hot water etc.
  • Expenses of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones and Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Oxygen Cylinders, Masks, Hoses and Regulators
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with another member) if applicable.
  • Walkie talkie & Filming permit.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other services not included in "Cost Includes" section
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  • Nepal Tourism Board
  • TAAN
  • Nepal Mountaineering Association

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