Lhakpa-Ri Peak Climbing

Lhakpa-Ri Peak Climbing
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Facts About Lhakpa-Ri Peak Climbing

Grade

Medium

Max Size

2-15

Altitude

7045

Transportation

Jeep

Accomodation

Hotel/ Lodge / Tent

Major Activity

Trekking and Climbing

Himalayan Sights

Langtang Himalaya Range

Starts/Ends

Kathmandu to Kathmandu

Duration:

30 Days

Trip Overview

Lhakpa-Ri (7045m), also called Nangpai Gosum II, is a mountain in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and Tibet. It was first climbed in 1960 by a Chinese expedition. The mountain is part of the Nepalese Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area.

Lhakpa-Ri is located in the northeastern part of Nepal, about 30km southeast of Mount Everest. It is the second highest peak of the Nangpai Gosum massif, after Jomolhari. The mountain has four main summits: Main Summit (7045m), East Summit (6940m), West Summit (6902m) and South Summit (6860m). Lakpa-Ri is mostly climbed from the Tibetan side, as the Nepalese side is much more difficult. 

Lhakpa Ri has become one of the most renowned 7000m peaks in the world because it is easy to access and close to Mount Everest. The trek begins on the Tibetan Plateau and goes through Rongbuk Monastery before coming to Base Camp on the north.

Major Highlights of Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

  • Lhakpa-Ri is the highest peak in the world that is not part of a mountain range.
  • Lhakpa-Ri was first climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.
  • The summit of Lakpa-Ri offers stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
  • Lhakpa-Ri is home to a variety of wildlife, including rare snow leopards and red pandas.
  • The Lhakpa-Ri expedition provides a unique opportunity to explore the high Himalaya.
  • The expedition offers challenging technical climbing, as well as opportunities for cultural exchange.
  • The expedition is led by experienced guides who have a wealth of knowledge about the Himalaya.
  • The team will be supported by Sherpa porters and yaks, ensuring a comfortable journey.
  • The expedition includes a comprehensive medical support team to ensure the safety of all participants.
  • The expedition is an unforgettable experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.

Routes to Lhakpa-Ri Expedition Summit

The South Col route is the most popular and commonly used route to reach the summit of Lakpa-Ri. It is also the safest and most straightforward route, making it a good choice for first time climbers or those with limited mountaineering experience. 

The South Col route begins at base camp, located at an elevation of around 5,364 metres (17,600 feet). From here, climbers will make their way up the Khumbu Icefall before reaching Camp I, located at an elevation of 6,400 metres (21,000 feet). 

From Camp I, climbers will then proceed to the Lhotse Face and onto Camp II, located at an elevation of 7,200 metres (23,600 feet). From Camp II, climbers will make their way up the Swiss Route before summiting Lakpa-Ri.

Best Seasons for Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

Lhakpa-Ri is one of the most popular expedition peaks in Nepal. It is located in the Khumbu region and offers stunning views of some of the world’s highest mountains, including Mt. Everest. The peak is also a great place to see the beautiful colors of the autumn leaves as they change. Lhakpa-Ri is a great peak for both experienced climbers and those new to mountaineering.

Autumn is one of the best times to climb Lhakpa-Ri. The weather is usually stable, with clear skies and little wind. This makes for ideal climbing conditions. The views from the summit are also unbeatable during this time of year. You can see the Everest massif, Lhotse, and Makalu, as well as many other peaks in the region.

If you’re planning on climbing Lakpa-Ri this autumn, be sure to book your expedition early. The peak is very popular and spots fill up quickly. Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) issues permits for Lakpa-Ri expeditions. You can also book your expedition through a mountaineering company. Be sure to do your research and choose a reputable company with experience in the region.

Autumn is an ideal time to climb Lhakpa-Ri, but the peak can be climbed year-round. Spring and summer are also popular times to climb, although the weather can be more unpredictable. Winter is the least popular time to climb, due to the cold temperatures and potential for avalanches. If you’re planning on climbing Lakpa-Ri in winter, be sure to have the proper equipment and experience.

No matter when you climb Lhakpa-Ri, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience. The views from the summit are truly breathtaking, and the sense of accomplishment is unmatched. If you’re looking for a challenging peak to add to your mountaineering resume, Lhakpa-Ri is a great choice.

Foods and Accommodations during Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

The first thing you need to take care of during your Lakpa-Ri expedition is your food and accommodation. There are many things to consider when it comes to food. For example, you need to make sure that you have enough food to last you throughout the expedition. You also need to make sure that the food you have is healthy and nutritious. Lastly, you need to make sure that the food is easy to prepare.

When it comes to accommodation, there are a few things to consider as well. First, you need to make sure that you have a comfortable place to sleep. Second, you need to make sure that the accommodation is clean and safe. Lastly, you need to make sure that the accommodation is affordable.

There are many different options for food and accommodation during your Lakpa-Ri expedition. You can choose to camp, stay in a guesthouse, or even stay in a hotel. It all depends on your budget and preferences.

If you are on a tight budget, then camping is probably the best option for you. Camping is a great way to save money on accommodation. However, it is important to note that camping can be uncomfortable and it may not be the safest option.

Permits and Documents for Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

As part of the process of planning your Lhakpa-Ri expedition, you will need to obtain the necessary permits and documents. The list below outlines the permits and documents that are required for this expedition:

  • Passport: You will need a valid passport in order to enter Nepal. Make sure that your passport is up to date and that you have at least six months of validity remaining.
  • Visa: You will need to obtain a Nepal visa in order to enter the country. You can apply for a visa at your nearest Nepalese consulate or embassy.
  • Trekking Permit: A trekking permit is required in order to trek in Nepal. You can obtain a trekking permit from the Nepal Tourism Board or from your tour operator.
  • TIMS Card: A Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) card is required in order to trek in Nepal. You can obtain a TIMS card from the Nepal Tourism Board or from your tour operator.
  • Lhakpa-Ri Expedition Permit: An expedition permit is required in order to attempt to summit Lhakpa-Ri. You can obtain an expedition permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association.
  • Climbing Permit: A climbing permit is required in order to climb Lhakpa-Ri. You can obtain a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association.
  • Rescue Insurance: Rescue insurance is highly recommended for anyone planning to trek or climb in Nepal. You can obtain rescue insurance from your tour operator or from the Nepal Mountaineering Association.
  • Medical Certificate: A medical certificate is required in order to obtain a climbing permit. The certificate must be from a licensed physician and must state that you are physically fit to attempt to climb Lhakpa-Ri.
  • Letter of Intent: A letter of intent is required in order to obtain a climbing permit. The letter must state your personal information, your team's composition, and your climbing objectives.
  • Passport-sized Photographs: You will need to submit passport-sized photographs along with your application for a climbing permit. Two photographs are required for the application.

Now that you know the permits and documents that are required for your Lhakpa-Ri expedition, start the process of obtaining them as soon as possible. The sooner you have all of the necessary paperwork in order, the smoother your expedition will go.

Guides and Porters during Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

One of the most important aspects of any expedition is choosing the right guides and porters. This is especially true for the Lakpa-Ri expedition, as the terrain is notoriously difficult and dangerous. The last thing you want is to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no help.

There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing guides and porters. First, you want to make sure that they are experienced in the area. Ideally, they should have done at least one Lhakpa-Ri expedition before. 

Second, you want to make sure that they are physically fit and capable of handling the demanding terrain. Third, you want to make sure that they are reliable and trustworthy.

Once you have found a few potential guides and porters, it is important to interview them to get a sense of their personality and capabilities. This will help you make the best decision for your expedition.

Price for Guides and Porters

The price for guides and porters will vary depending on their experience and capabilities. Generally, you can expect to pay between $200 and $500 per day for a guide, and between $100 and $250 per day for a porter. 

This does not include the cost of food and lodging, which you will need to provide for your guides and porters.

Lhakpa-Ri Expedition Tips

Assuming you have basic mountaineering experience and are reasonably fit, here are a few tips to help you prepare for your Lhakpa-Ri expedition:

  • Get in shape

This is probably the most important thing you can do to prepare for your expedition. Lhakpa-Ri is a physically demanding mountain, and the higher you go, the thinner the air gets. You'll need to be in good physical condition to make it to the summit.

  • Learn some basic mountaineering skills

If you're not already familiar with climbing and camping in mountainous terrain, it's a good idea to learn some basic mountaineering skills before your expedition. Things like using an ice axe, setting up a tent, and melting snow for drinking water are all essential skills you'll need to know.

  • Choose the right gear

Make sure you have all the necessary gear for your expedition, including warm clothing, a good sleeping bag, climbing equipment, and food. It's also important to make sure your gear is in good condition and appropriate for the conditions you'll be facing on the mountain.

  • Plan your route

Lhakpa-Ri is a big mountain, and there are many different routes to the summit. Make sure you have a well-thought-out plan for your expedition, including where you're going to camp each night and how you're going to get from one campsite to the next.

  • Be prepared for bad weather

The weather on Lhakpa-Ri can be very unpredictable. Be prepared for strong winds, cold temperatures, and heavy snowfall. Make sure you have the appropriate gear and clothing to protect yourself from the elements.

Equipments on Lhakpa-Ri Expedition

Lhakpa-Ri expedition requires special equipment due to the difficult terrain and weather conditions. Some of the essential equipments are: 

  • Crampons: These are spikes attached to shoes or boots that provide traction on icy or snowy surfaces. 
  • Ice axe: This is a tool used for climbing and self-arresting in case of a fall. 
  • Rope: Climbing and rappelling on Lhakpa-Ri requires special ropes that are strong and durable. 
  • Harness: A harness is used to secure the climber to the rope. 
  • Carabiners: These are metal loops used to attach the rope to the harness. 
  • Helmet: A helmet is worn to protect the head from falling rocks or ice. 
  • Goggles: Goggles are worn to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun on the snow. 
  • Sunscreen: Wearing sunscreen is important to protect the skin from the UV rays at high altitudes. 
  • Thermos: A thermos is used to carry hot beverages like tea or soup to keep the climber warm. 
  • First Aid Kit: A first aid kit is essential to treat any injuries that may occur during the expedition. 
  • Stove: A portable stove is used for cooking food during the expedition. 
  • Sleeping bag: A sleeping bag is used to sleep in at night. It should be rated for cold weather and must be very warm. 
  • Tent: A tent is used as shelter during the expedition. It should be sturdy and able to withstand high winds. 
  • Maps: Detailed maps are essential for planning the expedition and for navigation during the climb. 
  • Satellite phone: A satellite phone is used to communicate with base camp in case of an emergency. 
  • Battery charger: A battery charger is used to recharge batteries for the GPS and satellite phone. 
  • Camera: A camera can be used to take pictures or videos during the expedition. 

Lhakpa-Ri Peak Climbing Itinerary

Expand/Collapse All
Day 1 : Arrival at Kathmandu
Food
Dinner
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1400

Arrival at Kathmandu international Airport then transfer to Hotel Check in and after refreshment brifing about the trip. Evening go for welcome dinner. 

Overnight at Hotel.

Day 2 : Preparation day for Expedition
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1400

Preparation day for Expedition, If you need anything for the expetion you can buy in Kathamndu or sightseeing tour of KTM valley.

Day 3 : Drive to Syprubeshi
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Morning after breakfast drive from Kathmandu  to Syprubeshi it will take 7hrs drive. 

Day 4 : Drive to Kerung Height
Food
breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

after breakfast Drive to Kerung Height

Day 5 : Drive to Tingri
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Morning after breakfast drive to Tingri 

Day 6 : Acclimatization day at Tingri
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Acclimatization day at Tingri

Day 7 : Drive to Chinese Base Camp
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Drive to Chinese Base Camp

Day 8 : Acclimatization day at Chinese Base Camp
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Acclimatization day at Chinese Base Camp

Day 9 : Trek to Middle Camp
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Tent

Trek to Middle Camp

Day 10 : Trek to Advanced Base Camp
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Tent

Trek to Advanced Base Camp

Day 11 : to Day 25: Climbing Period (Lakpa-Ri Summit)
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Tent

Day 11 to Day 25: Climbing Period (Lakpa-Ri Summit)

Day 26 : Clean advanced base camp and trek to Chinese Base Camp
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Tent

Clean advanced base camp and trek to Chinese Base Camp

Day 27 : Trek to Middle Camp and drive to Tingri
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

Trek to Middle Camp and drive to Tingri

Day 28 : Drive to Kerung Border
Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
lodge

Drive to Kerung Border

Day 29 : Drive to Kathmandu
Food
Breakfast & Lunch
Accomodation
Hotel

Morning after breakfast drive to kathmandu by privte Jeep it will take 7hrs drive. 

Day 30 : Final Departure
Food
Breakfast

Our representative will drop you to the International Airport (TIA) to assist you for your final departure to your destination or alternatively the next destination.

Cost Includes

  • All airport pick-up and drop-off service including domestic and international flights
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as mentioned in above itinerary on B/B basis
  • Trekking guides for the trip
  • Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during climbing
  • Necessary porters for trekking/climbing (A porter carries 25-30 Kg)
  • Trekking and camping equipments such as camping tents, mattress, sleeping bags, down jackets.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) and available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during the trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Peak climbing permit & Trekking Permit fee
  • All necessary paperwork, office Service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs
  • First Aid medical kit
  • Satellite phone carrying by the Guide for communication (available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call)
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at Base Camp and above as required
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
  • Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu before departure
  • Company service charges
  • Garbage deposit & other Government Tax

Cost Excludes

  • Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottled or boiled water, shower etc)
  • Tips for guides and porters

Altitude Graph

Fequenty Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is the best time of year to attempt an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri?

The best time of year to attempt an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri is from late May to early July. This is when the weather conditions are most favorable for climbing in this region.

What type of equipment do I need for an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri?

You will need all the standard mountaineering equipment for an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri, including crampons, ice axe, and climbing harness. You should also bring along enough food and supplies to last you for several days in case of bad weather or other delays.

What are the biggest challenges I will face while climbing Lhakpa-Ri?

The biggest challenges you will face while climbing Lhakpa-Ri are the high altitude and the potential for bad weather. Lhakpa-Ri is located in a very remote region of Nepal, so if you run into any problems while climbing, it may be difficult to get help.

What is the best way to prepare for an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri?

The best way to prepare for an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri is to get in good physical shape and to familiarize yourself with the route. You should also read up on the region's weather patterns and learn how to recognize the signs of altitude sickness.

What are the most common mistakes that climbers make while attempting an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri?

The most common mistakes that climbers make while attempting an ascent of Lhakpa-Ri are failing to acclimatize to the high altitude and not being prepared for the extreme weather conditions.

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